Wednesday 27 June 2012

Fabulous Film Fashions - Madonna's W.E.

I've another 'Fabulous Film Fashion' post for you lovely lot, this time, I've had an obsessive ogle at Madonnas latest film release W.E.

To be honest this is a film I never really thought I would end up watching. I'd never really been that interested in Wallis and I had heard such lukewarm reviews of it, that unconsciously I'd discounted it. But as I was standing in Tesco's trying to find a something nice for less than a tenner in their DVD section, I saw that this film was on sale for a reasonable £6 so after a little deliberation, I popped it in my basket and took a risk.

Fabulous Film Fashions - Madonna's W.E.In 1998, lonely New Yorker Wally Winthrop (Abbie Cornish) is obsessed with what she perceives as the ultimate love story: King Edward VIII's abdication of the British throne for the woman he loved, American divorcée Wallis Simpson. But Winthrop's research, including several visits to the Sotheby's auction of the Windsor Estate, reveals that the couple's life together was not as perfect as she thought. Weaving back and forth in time, the film intertwines Wally's journey of discovery in New York with the story of Wallis (Andrea Riseborough) and Edward (James D'Arcy), from the glamorous early days of their romance to the slow unraveling of their lives in the decades that followed. (source)


I am so glad I did, as after watching this film now for the second time I can honestly say I enjoyed it. I'm not going to lie, I would have loved the film to have been purely set in the past, especially as Andrea's portrayal of Wallis is captivating. But let's face it, that's been done many times before (here and here to name just a few) so this was a certainly a unique approach which kept it from being too predictable.


One negative for me was that at times I found Wally's sections of the film a little slow, I could totally relate to her obsession and fascination with the past as an escape from her real life, but she does do an awful lot of teary gazing at things without saying much and perhaps her story at times seems a bit too coincidentally similar to that of Wallis.


The Butterfly Balcony a look at Madonna's WE Costumes / Film Fashions - Wally and Wallis

The film has been heavily criticised for its lack of historical accuracy, the line between fact and fiction may well have been blurred, but I don't think (for me at least) it is a problem. As with most films you are viewing one person's interpretation of the story, so this is just Madonna's (or Wally's) take on Wallis & Edward and not necessarily the definitive story. Having known only a little about this infamous woman before watching W.E. my desire to learn more about the 'real' Wallis has certainly increased, which can be no bad thing.



The Butterfly Balcony a look at Madonna's WE Costumes / Film Fashions Edward and Wallis
(source)


 Anyway, a film reviewer I am not. Obsessive costume watcher I certainly am and Madonna has certainly excelled herself in this department. Working alongside Arianne Phillips they have created sumptuous wardrobes for all of the characters, but my hat has to well and truly come off to them for their recreation of Wallis' Wardrobe. Which is stunning and must have cost a flipping fortune!
"Phillips forged relationships with Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels to replicate the cross bracelet and 10 other iconic pieces. For the gowns, undergarments, and dresses needed for the 60 costume changes in the film, Phillips scoured the Vionnet and Schiaparelli archives and then, with the cooperation of both houses, redesigned and (often re-imagined) Simpson’s clothing. “Some of the pieces that the duchess actually ordered I thought were hideous,” Phillips said. “Those wouldn’t work for the movie, so we modified and invented. Wallis wasn’t pretty; she was handsome, at best. In England, it was noted over and over how unattractive she was. But Wallis was a lot of fun—very entertaining.” [source]
I'll be honest I know very little about designers so I've just chosen some of my favorites, captured them as best I could with copious screenshots and a brief description of the outfits as I see them (I could be wrong). I've also added in a few quotes from Arianne where I could find them, so I hope you enjoy!

 Warning screenshot heavy post !!
(click all pictures to make bigger)

Brown Suit & Green Tea Dress
Fabulous Film Fashions W.E. - Wallis - Brown Suit & Green Tea Dress
Screen Shots from W.E.
A brown suit Jacket with matching brown wool toque hat (it does make her look a bit like a Crayola, but a fabulous one!) Underneath is a green floral calf length tea dress with pleating towards a high neckline, rear fastening with self-covered buttons which run down the back of neck to waist, finished with a pair of brown suede shoes.
“Initially, when we see her when she’s sick, in the car, and she and Ernest Simpson, her husband, are going to Fort Belvedere for the weekend—it’s the first time they’re meeting Edward, [so] I tried to keep her clothes more naïve,” Phillips explains. “She always had impeccable style, but as her means changed and her milieu changed, her clothes changed as well.”  (Source)
Blue Velvet & Gold Lame Gown - Schiaparelli Inspired
Fabulous Film Fashions W.E.  - Wallis - Blue Velvet & Gold Lame Gown - Schiaparelli Inspired
Screen Shots from W.E. capture by me Additional images from Here
This is a dress little girls dreams are made of, well mine at least! Wallis is wearing a rich blue velvet gown with floor-length velvet skirt, gold lame bodice and with velvet under ruched/gathered (along inside seam) three-quarter length sleeves, trimmed with what looks like a lighter blue velvet chain brocade. Cinched in with a wide belt with a lighter blue embellishment, topped off with what looks like a fabric tiara headband.
“It’s actually a replication of a Schiaparelli gown,” Though the dress is not one that Wallis actually wore, to Phillips’s knowledge, “Wallis Simpson was a client of Elsa Schiaparelli and did wear a lot of her clothes in that particular period.”(Quote Source)
Blue & White Pinstripe  - Arianne Phillips 
Fabulous Film Fashions W.E.  - Wallis - Blue & White Pinstripe  - Arianne Phillips
Screen Shots from W.E. capture by me Additional images from Here
Floor length full paneled (bias cut) skirt, with each panel joining the bodice to form a V, button through bodice, interesting v-shaped yoke which is repeated on the back, mid length slightly puffed sleeves. This dress is a testament to the skills of the couturier, look at the way that all the stripes match up, just look at the bodice and sleeves!
" To host a luncheon, Wallis wears a crisp sundress. “Wallis wore a lot of graphic patterns. I wanted this dress to feel as formal as it could for an outfit in the South of France, so I loved the idea of the striped pale blue and white,” (source)

“I wanted a really striking day dress. This one was inspired by a lot of the photographs we had of her. It had this beautiful organza petticoat that just made it waft and float when she walked.”(source)
 Blue & White Peasant Blouse & White Skirt
Fabulous Film Fashions W.E.  - Wallis - Blue & White Peasant Blouse & White Skirt
Screen Shots from W.E. captured by me Additional image from here
This outfit is so simple yet so striking! Slightly cream cotton peasant blouse with pale and dark blue embroidered panels around the collar, cuffs and down front on either side of the button band. Teamed with a simple white linen skirt.

 Beige & Black Zigzag Suit With A Winged Vail Hat - Arianne Phillips
Fabulous Film Fashions W.E.  - Wallis - Beige & Black Zigzag Suit With A Winged Vail Hat
Screen Shots from W.E. captured by me. Additional images from here & here
Fabulous Film Fashions W.E.  - Wallis - Beige & Black Zigzag Suit With A Winged Vail Hat
B&W image from here / Colour image from here
This suit was designed by Arianne for the film it features a black and beige zigzag pattern a cowl neck mid-calf length dress, sits under a hip-length jacket . Accessorised with black crossover sued shoes and a fabulous winged hat which you can see the inspiration for here.

'Wallis' Blue Crepe Dress - Replica Manbouchier
Fabulous Film Fashions W.E.  - Wallis - 'Wallis' Blue Crepe Dress - Replica Manbouchier

This dress is only seen briefly in the film so I have had to rely on the web for images of the original. Wallis original wedding dress was designed by Mainboucher, made from blue silk crepe in what was to be her signature colour of 'Wallis Blue', which was said to have been chosen to match her eyes, she had matching blue gloves. Her her blue straw halo hat was designed by Caroline Reboux.
"Most famous was the pale, "Wallis"-blue Mainbocher dress, in which she wed the Duke of Windsor in 1937. The original has not lasted well: "We were lucky enough to see it, but, unfortunately, the colour has faded into a dingy blue-green." So the dress Riseborough wears is a replica hired from Cosprop, a London-based costumery." (Quote Source Telegraph)
Gold & Silver Lame Gown -  Madeleine Vionnet
Fabulous Film Fashions W.E.  - Wallis - Gold & Silver Lame Gown -  Madeleine Vionnet
 Screen Shots from W.E. capture by me Additional image from Here
"She is wearing a dress made by Vionnet, bracelets from Anna Hu, hair jewels from Stephen Jones, and Madonna’s personal necklace. He is wearing a navy tuxedo with tails—his signature.” (Quote Source)
Fabulous Film Fashions W.E.  - Wallis - Gold & Silver Lame Gown -  Madeleine Vionnet
Image on left from here / Image on right from here
A Floor length halter neck silver & gold lame bias cut gown split down the front of silver outer dress reveals gold under dress, held in place with a wide gold metal leaf (?) belt.


Cream Chiffon Leaf Beaded Gown  - Madeleine Vionnet
Fabulous Film Fashions W.E.  - Wallis - Cream Chiffon Leaf Beaded Gown  - Madeleine Vionnet
Screenshots of W.E by me Additional images from here & here
Cream Chiffon floor length gown, with godet inserts in the skirt below hips to add fullness, V-neckline with ribbon tie at back. The dress is covered in cascading heart shaped leaves made from hand sewn gold & silver beads/sequins waist is accentuated with a  matching silver beaded/sequined belt.
"The film W.E. gave Vionnet such a wonderful opportunity to showcase the exquisite craftsmanship and skill of the house," the label's ceo Matteo MarzottoVionnet for Wallis Simpson with precision and accuracy. Extensive research was carried out on fabrics and construction using original pieces from the archives at the Louvre." told Vogue. "We were thrilled to be considered for the project and it was so exciting to be part of such a lavish production that portrayed one of history's most intriguing women. The film, W.E., challenged us to utilise our extensive knowledge and craftsmanship to re-create the original pieces designed by Madeleine" (Quote Source)
White Blouse & Blue Skirt
Fabulous Film Fashions W.E.  - Wallis - White Blouse & Blue Skirt
Black & White Image from here Screenshots by me
White linen blouse with double peter pan style collar, short sleeves, fabric covered buttons and breast pockets, teamed with a blue calf length linen skirt which buttons down the front, and accessorised with a woven white & blue/black belt.


Dark Blue Satin Gown - Dior
Fabulous Film Fashions W.E.  - Wallis - Dark Blue Satin Gown - Dior
Additional Images from here & here Screenshots by me
Very simple and chic! Silk satin in a deep blue, calf length full bias cut skirt short cuffed sleeves, round necked bodice. Worn with two strings of purls. (naturally!)

White Trousers & Blouse with Kimono Jacket
Fabulous Film Fashions W.E.  - Wallis - White Trousers & Blouse with Kimono Jacket
Screenshots from W.E. captured by me Additional images from here
“Wallis looks so glum because this is when she listens to Edward’s abdication on the radio while she’s lying low in the South of France. Everything is vintage—the handpainted kimono-style jacket, the linen trousers—though the black bracelet was custom made for us by Alexis Bittar. On her left hand is her engagement ring—a large square-cut emerald, re-created by Cartier.” (Quote Source)

Grey Wool Suit - Schiaparelli
Fabulous Film Fashions W.E.  - Wallis - Grey Wool Suit - Schiaparell
Screenshots from W.E. captured by me Additional images from here
This suit is just so smart and couldn't be any more 50's in style! Grey wool Jacket with large collar, a natural peplum on a jacket, a mid-calf length skirt with rear slit and a matching hat.
 "Andrea Riseborough is wearing a Schiaparelli "minute" suit with Cariter Pearls and medals. One medal was given to Wallis (by Edward) when her beloved terrior Slipper died—Price Edward liked to give her "memento" jewelry—and the other a is carved Ganesh. Cartier re-created the medals and pearls for us. Once the film comes out, Cartier will destroy all the copies it re-created for the production, so the originals will not be devalued." (Quote Source)
Well If you have made it this far I salute you!

If you enjoyed this you might like:
Wendy x

    Saturday 23 June 2012

    A Day in the Life - Girl's of the Blitz Canteen

    The post I was going to publish today has been magically deleted by blogger (the title is there but all the text in the post is from another yet unpublished one? How? Three evenings work evaporated!! I'm not a happy bunny!)

    So instead (while I go off and have a sulk) I'll give you another installment from the Imperial War museums Collection Archives. Today we follow society girls Patience Brand and Rachel Bingham as the go about their daily operations of the Blitz Canteen in 1941.



    Patience 'Boo' Brand wakes up Rachel Bingham at the WVS Canteen Service depot at 2:30am, in order that they can prepare to distribute refreshments to shelterers emerging for work after a night in the shelter.

    Patience 'Boo' Brand fastens the belt at the back of her coat, whilst Rachel Bingham ties up her shoe laces at the WVS Canteen Service depot in London, 1941. Rachel is wearing a steel helmet and Boo's helmet is on the bed, ready to be put on.

    Rachel Bingham applies her lipstick while Patience 'Boo' Brand ties her shoelaces at the WVS Canteen Service depot in 1941. Both are wearing steel helmets and are preparing to leave the depot to distribute refreshments to shelterers emerging for work after a night in the shelter.

    It is 2:45am and Patience 'Boo' Brand and Rachel Bingham are preparing their canteen at the WVS Canteen Service depot in 1941. Rachel lights a primus stove, whilst Boo makes tea before pouring it into large Thermos urns ready for serving on arrival at their destination.

    Patience 'Boo' Brand puts meat pies in to cook in the gas oven in the mobile canteen so that they are piping hot when served to shelterers, while Rachel Bingham holds the tray. They are both members of the Women's' Voluntary Service and are preparing the canteen before they leave the WVS Canteen Service depot to supply refreshments to shelterers emerging for work after a night in the shelter, London, 1941.

    Women in the Voluntary Services: Two WVS girls working at a Blitz canteen. They are pictured lifting a heavy urn full of tea.

    At 3:45am, Patience 'Boo' Brand drives the tea car and canteen from the WVS Canteen Service depot, whilst Rachel Bingham directs her by torchlight. They have together hitched the trailer onto the car and are on their way to supply refreshments to shelterers emerging for work after a night in the shelter.

    At 4:15am, Patience 'Boo' Brand reports the arrival of the WVS mobile canteen to the ARP warden at his post in the park in which Londoners sleep in trench shelters. The canteen will provide shelterers with tea and buns before they leave the shelter to set off for work, London, 1941.

    Patience 'Boo' Brand serves tea to a shelterer from the WVS canteen, as an ARP warden drinks his tea, a bun in his hand, under the awning of the canteen. Rachel Bingham is also working behind the counter, pouring tea from an urn into a mug. All refreshments are sold to the shelterers at cost price, and the WVS makes no profit.

    At 5:30am, Patience 'Boo' Brand and Rachel Bingham carry trays of tea and buns to shelterers who have been unable to visit the canteen. Many elderly people in this trench shelter are too infirm to come out of the shelter and other shelterers are scared of the noise of the blitz overhead.

    Patience 'Boo' Brand and Rachel Bingham of the WVS distribute tea and buns to ladies sheltering in a trench shelter in a London park, 1941. The ladies have made the shelter more comfortable by bringing chairs, tables and lamps from home.

    Rachel Bingham scrubs the floor of the WVS canteen on her return to the Canteen Service depot, somewhere in London in 1941. The original caption states that Rachel had not had to scrub a floor before she joined the WVS, as she is part of 'Society' and had a maid to do it for her. This demonstrates that all parts of society were volunteering for the WVS.

    It is now 8am, and having returned to the depot and cleaned the canteen, Patience 'Boo' Brand loads a tea urn into the smaller tea car, in preparation for a call to another location, somewhere in London.

    Rachel Bingham serves tea from the back of her WVS tea car to a man who has been helping to clear up the rubble and debris caused by an air raid in this area of London, 1941.

    Rachal Bingham sets up mugs ready to start selling cups of tea and buns to people helping to clear up damage and debris in this bombed area of London. Patience 'Boo' Brand stands behind Rachel, in front of the tea car, where a counter has been set up.

    Rachel Bingham counts out the change for a man buying a cup of tea and a bun from the WVS tea car that she is running with her friend Patience 'Boo' Brand. Boo stands behind the counter of the tea car and waits to deal with the next person queuing at the car. These men were previously unemployed, but have now found work helping to clear up the rubble and debris caused by an air raid to this area of London.

    Patience 'Boo' Brand reaches into a compartment in the WVS tea car to get a pack of cigarettes for one of the men queuing to buy tea can buns, somewhere in London, 1941. These men were previously unemployed, but are now working to clear rubble and debris caused by an air raid to this area.

    Patience 'Boo' Brand pours tea into the cup of a man who has been bombed out of his home, from the back of the WVS tea car. This man's wife is currently staying with friends. The cup which is being filled has been brought to the tea car by the man, so that it can be filled with tea for his cat! The man has a mug of tea for himself in his other hand.

    Patience 'Boo' Brand washes mugs in a bowl of water on the ground next to the WVS tea car, somewhere in London, 1941. The cups are washed straight after use and put away so that they are immediately ready when the tea car arrives at its next destination. In the background, bomb-damaged houses and piles of debris can be seen.


    It is now 11am and members of the Pioneer Corps help WVS ladies unload trays of buns and pies from the WVS canteen, somewhere in London, 1941. The Pioneer Corps have been helping to clear up the rubble and debris caused by an air raid in this area.

    At 11:30am, a queue of hungry Pioneer Corps men forms at the WVS canteen. These men have been helping to clear away debris and rubble caused by an air raid in this area of London and are now waiting to buy their lunchtime snack.

    Men of the Pioneer Corps gather around a WVS canteen and relax with tea and buns after a morning of clearing rubble and debris following an air raid in this area of London, 1941.


    Patience 'Boo' Brand fills a large saucepan with water from the urn on board the mobile canteen that she and her friend run on behalf of the Women's Voluntary Service, as men of the Pioneer Corps gather outside. In front of her, another urn and stacks of mugs can also be seen.

    Patience 'Boo' Brand, a WVS volunteer, stands on the 'wrong' side of the counter of the WVS canteen amongst a group of thirsty Pioneer Corps. She is receiving a cup of tea from a WVS colleague inside the canteen and is just about to hand it to one of the waiting Pioneer Corps men. These men have been helping to clear rubble following an air raid in this area of London, 1941.

    Miss Patience 'Boo' Brand is 18 years old and is part of London's 'Society'. She is now a member of the Women's Voluntary Service and runs a mobile canteen in London. Here we see her raising her cup in front of the canteen vehicle.


    Men of the Pioneer Corps eat buns and drink tea alongside a WVS canteen during their midday day break on a bomb site, somewhere in London. The photograph is taken from the site of a house that was completely destroyed in the raid. More bomb-damaged houses, including one with a sign for 'Lloyd's Laundry' can be seen in the background.

    Patience 'Boo' Brand and Rachel Bingham serve tea to men of the Royal Engineers from the back of a WVS tea car, donated to the WVS by the American Red Cross. The Royal Engineers had been building bridges across bomb craters in main thoroughfares. This photograph was taken somewhere in London in 1941.

    A Royal Engineer smiles for the camera in front of the WVS tea car, donated to the WVS by the American Red Cross. He is holding a mug of tea and a fruit pie, which are his 3 o'clock afternoon tea, purchased from the WVS tea car. The Royal Engineers had been building bridges across bomb craters in main throughfares and this photograph was taken somewhere in London in 1941.
    
    


    After tea, a group of Royal Engineers help Patience 'Boo' Brand with the washing up, by drying the mugs and stacking them back in their trays. The Engineers have been building bridges across bomb craters on main thoroughfares and have just bought afternoon tea and buns from the WVS tea car, (which can be seen behind them), run by Boo and her friend Rachel Bingham. This photograph was taken somewhere in London in 1941.
    18 year old Patience 'Boo' Brand and her friend Rachel Bingham prepare for bed at the WVS Canteen Service depot. Rachel sets the alarm for 2:30am, so that they will be ready to supply refreshments to shelterers emerging for work after a night in the shelter.










    So there you go Patience 'Boo' Brand (what a great name by the way!) and Rachel's day in the Blitz Canteen, It must have been quite a culture shock to these young society girls, to suddenly have been thrust in amongst the devastation of the Blitz, but I'm sure that though it was hard work and the hours were long, it must have been an endlessly rewarding role to have had.
    Wendy x